This
trip offers an incredible insight into the remote Spiti and Pin Valleys of
Himachal Pradesh. From the lush green Kulu Valley, enter the starkly
beautiful Spiti Valley, visiting ancient gompas and scattered little
villages. After crossing the Baba pass, the landscape changes dramatically,
with the barren lunarscape of Spiti being replaced by thick forests of pine,
cedar and deodar. The trek ends at Simla, the summer capital of the British
Raj.
Highlights of your trek starts from Manali onwards and end up in Shimla.
Manali and Shimla are well connected by road and flight from Delhi and
further arrangements will be provided as per the request. Travel by Toy
Train from Shimla to Kalka may be an advantage to explore more and
recommended.
Day 01 : Drive MANALI to LOSSAR - 7 hours
Drive along the Beas River upstream along the true left bank through the
villages of Bhang and Palchan, the last inhabited village in the Kulu Valley
beyond Manali. Start the climb from Palchan village to Rohtang la via Gulaba
and Marhi, the winter ski slopes which are used by local shepherds as summer
pastures. The Beas, one of the major rivers draining the fertile land of
Punjab, originates from a spring just below the Rohtang la. In summer, one
can see masses of Indian tourists and honeymooners visiting Marhi and
Rohtang la to enjoy the snow, which stays usually up to July. There are a
profusion of Chai shops and makeshift restaurants. The road beyond Marhi is
broken and rough since it is used by heavy military and civilian convoys,
carrying supplies to Lahoul, Spiti and Ladakh. Stop for a while on top of
the pass at a chai shop to have hot cup of tea.
From Batal a steep drive of 11 km. will bring you to the top of the Kunzum
la (14,800 ft/4,500 m). From here you get the first glimpse of Spiti valley
running 200 km. across from north-west to south-east with the Spiti river
drained from the glaciers to the left of Kunzum la.
Since you have climbed more than 6,000 ft in a day it is advisable to move
around and go for a walk after camp has been set up to help acclimatize to
the altitude.
Day 02 : Drive LOSSAR TO KAZA - 76 km. (4 hours)
After
breakfast drive through the village of Lossar and stop to visit the
monastery. The topography of Spiti is marked by high mountains and narrow
river valleys with flat land being an uncommon occurrence.
Drive through the villages of Hansa, Kyato, Pangmo, Hal, Morang, Murling,
Khyurik and Rangrik. You get awesome views of Ki gompa from Morang village
across the Spiti river. Cross the Spiti river just 2 km. before Kaza and
drive along the true left bank of the river.
Visit the famous Ki gompa and Kibbar, the highest permanent inhabited
village in the world, situated at the altitude of 14,200 ft/4,303 m. Ki, a
beautiful gompa perched high on a pyramid-like mountain, belongs to the
Gelug-pa sect of Tibetan Buddhism and has almost 40 resident monks
practicing meditation and other monastic rituals.
Return to the main road and drive steeply uphill for another half hour to
one of the highest permanently inhabited villages in the world. Located in a
semi bowl-shaped narrow valley, Kibber has a population of about 200 people
mainly involved in the farming of barley and wheat. The light is just
perfect an hour before sunset to photograph this unique village. Camp is set
near the helipad after crossing Kaza, the district headquarters of Spiti
valley.
Day 03 : Drive KAZA to MIKIM (SAGNAM) via DHANKAR - 6 to 7 hours
After an early breakfast drive on the link road and climb steeply to a most
incredibly-situated gompa, perched high on barren rocky mountain slopes. As
you progress, the whole Dhankar village opens up in front of you like
something artificial crops up from nowhere. The 6th century Dhankar gompa,
though not well preserved still has some magnificent original tangkhas and
statues tucked away in dark rooms.
Return to the main road and drive to the bridge of Attargu, from here,
cross the Spiti river by a pucca bridge and follow the Pin - one of the
major tributaries of the Spiti - upstream. Drive through the villages of
Chidang and Gyuling. Camp near the village.
The Pin valley is known to be full of wildlife - ibex, khangral, marmot,
bharal, are commonly seen on the high slopes with the elusive snow leopard
occasionally visible looking for prey. In the afternoon walk around and
explore the Pin valley.
Visit the monastery at Ghungri which is the main centre of the Nyingma pa
sect in Spiti. The monastery is believed to have been founded by Guru
Padmasambhava. Overnight camp.
Day 04 : Trek SAGNAM to TILING - 4 to 5 hours
The
trek begins by crossing the river. A short up-hill walk through rocky
terrain veering to the left offers wonderful views of the Pin valley below
and Khar and Sagnam villages. Trek along the high banks of the river for a
couple of hours, going over rocky land, meadows and cultivated fields up to
the village of Tiling, which lies at the confluence of the Kuokli Gad, a
side stream, and the Pin river. Camp is set here for the night.
Day 05 : Trek TILING to MUD PURKHA - 4 to 5 hours
The trail follows the Pin river for a while, before a short steep climb
through scree, followed by a gradual climb up the hillside and along vast
meadows covered with a great variety of mountain flowers and berries. These
are the grazing grounds of the local shepherds whose flocks often fall prey
to the snow leopard. Walk past a few isolated houses in walled compounds and
through green irrigated fields. The village of Mud lies across the Pin
river. The village gompa is set impressively on a cliff between two streams.
Overnight camp.
Day 06 : Trek MUD PURKO to BASE CAMP - 5 to 6 hours
The day begins with a gradual climb, followed by a steep ascent on scree
rubble, few hours below the Baba Pass. Camp is set on the opposite bank of
the stream.
Day 07 : Trek BASE CAMP to PODAL THACH over BABA PASS - 6 to 7 hours
The going is rugged for most the day, walking over moraine, scree, boulder
fields, and a final push through the snowfields to the top. As there is no
defined trail, the route demands attention. After crossing the pass, a steep
descent leads you to the campsite which is located on the banks of the Baba
river. The vast grass pastures attract shepherds from Kinnaur, who bring
their flocks of sheep and goats to graze here during the Spring (July to
September). Overnight camp.
Day 08 : Trek PODAL THACH to MARE - 5 to 6 hours
Start
with a gradual descent down the valley. The trail widens as you reach the
junction of two streams. Cross the stream that you have been following from
the campsite. Keeping this stream to your left, continue on till you reach
the valley floor, which is usually covered in wildflowers during August and
the first part of September. After a short climb, descend and cross the
stream over boulders which have fallen across the width of the stream. From
now on you follow the left bank of the river. Camp is set on a beautiful
glade amidst prime cedar forest.
Day 09 : Trek MARE to KAFNI - 4 to 5 hours. Drive to SARAHAN - 3 hours.
Descend through an incredible mixed cedar forest till you reach Kafni
village, where transport awaits you for the drive to Sarahan, the summer
capital of Rampur Bushahr. The Bhim Kali temple is a big attraction and one
gets magnificent views of the Sirkhand peaks. Overnight camping.
Day 10 : Drive SARAHAN to SHIMLA via RAMPUR - 192 km. (7 - 8 hours)
Rampur is the erstwhile Himalayan kingdom of Rampur Bushahr and offers a
rare insight into customs, religion, art and architecture of its people. It
is one of the biggest commercial towns in Himachal Pradesh and is famous for
the Lavi fair held in November. Traders from Kinnaur, Spiti and Lahaul
participate in it. Men and women come dressed in traditional costumes. A
special bazaar is held where they can be seen sitting in groups selling raw
wool, shawls and handicrafts, along with walnuts, almonds and other dried
fruits. While the days are spent in making bargains, the evenings are given
to song and dance.
Drive via Narkhanda, which offers ski slopes with training facilities
during the winter months, to Shimla. Spread across 12 km along a ridge that
overlooks terraced hillsides and cultivations, Shimla is magnificently robed
in dense forests of oak, pine, fir and rhododendron.
