Day 01 : Drive MANALI - 7
hours 
The
trek begins with a drive from Manali to Darcha over the Rohtang La (13,050
ft/3,300 m), passing through Keylong, the district headquarters of Lahoul.
Camp in a large river basin and prepare for the trek.
Day 02 : DARCHA to TAKPACHAN - 5 to 6 hours Walk up the Barai Nala
through the last Lahouli villages of Rarik and Chika to a campsite on a
small meadow by the river. A cold stream has to be forded. Overnight
camping.
Day 03 : TAKPACHAN to RAMJAK - 6 to 7 hours
Make an early start to enable you to cross the Jhankar Nala while the water
level is low. An hour's walk along the Barai Nala leads to the crossing
point. The Jhankar Nala, flowing down from the Shingo La, can be tricky
crossing, especially for the horses. A sharp turn to the right up a steep
slope along the Jhankar Nala leads to the campsite on a shepherd's meadow
beyond Ramjak.
Day 04 : RAMJAK to LAKONG SUMDO over SHINGO LA - 8
hours This is a long day, following the Jhankar Nala which
gradually ascends to the Shingo La (16,700 ft/5,091 m) to the left of an old
glacier. A steep descent is made to a meadow above Lakong Sumdo, a summer
pasture for sheep and yaks, where camp is set. A cold mountain stream must
be forded. You are now in Zanskar. Overnight camping.
Day 05 : LAKONG SUMDO to KARGIAKH - 6 to 7 hours Climb down a mass
of fallen rocks then cross several streams. Pass beneath the face of
Gumburanjon Peak and continue an easy descent towards the village of
Kargiakh, on the right bank of the Kargiakh river. A beautiful day's walk,
crossing high meadows strewn with wild flowers. Camp is set near the
village.
Day 06 : KARGIAKH to PURNE - 8 to 9 hours
Continue
on the right bank of the Kargiakh river, a major tributary of the Sarap Chu,
along an easy path. Half an hour before the small village of Tandze, there
is a bridge across to the left bank. The going is monotonous, across
morainic terrain. A slight rise leads to Kuru, a village of livestock
breeders. From here an excellent path leads steadily down to the beautiful
village of Testha and continues downward to the river. Stay on the left
bank, then climb gently up to Jal. A steep descent leads to a large bridge
across which is the village of Purne, at the confluence of the Kargiakh Nala
and Sarap Chu, where camp is set.
Day 07 : PURNE to
PHUKTAL and back to PURNE - 4 hours Go up the left bank of the
Sarap Chu into a gorge. Cross a bridge and arrive at the confluence of the
Tsarap Chu and a small tributary with clear blue water. Go up a rocky ledge
and turn left. From here you get one of the most spectacular sights in
Zanskar, the Phuktal monastery. Cross a series of chortens, climbing
steadily to Phuktal. The gompa belongs to the Gelug-pa (yellow hat) sect of
Tibetan Buddhism and is built inside a massive cave, blackened over the ages
by soot. The spring that gurgles deep in the cave is still out of bounds to
women. Return to Purne for overnight in camp.
Day 08 : PURNE to ICHAR - 5 to 6 hours From
Purne go back downwards, cross the bridge and then go up the left bank. The
trail that overhangs the Tsarap Chu is sometimes tricky and hard-going, with
frequent small canyons. Pass above a hanging bridge which leads to the
village of Cha. Two hours later arrive at Kaydang, a small village in a
poplar grove. Pass below the village of Surle. The trail is still not good -
several stretches are difficult for horses. Arrive at a large bridge which
leads to Ichar, an interesting fortified village, where camp is set for the
night.
Day 09 : ICHAR to MUNE - 5 hours
Cross over to the left bank, then climb gradually up to a bridge over a
major tributary. A gradual descent leads towards Reru, a beautiful plain
covered with wild flowers in July, and then on to Mune. Camp is set near a
pond above Mune village. There is a small monastery at Mune, worth visiting.
Day 10 : MUNE to PADUM - 5 hours
From
the monastery, go down a steep incline to the main trail. After two hours,
arrive at Bardan, a Kagyu-pa (red- hat) gompa, famous for its 180-cm high
prayer wheel. A dusty but motorable road, leads to Padum. Several beautiful
villages lie on the opposite bank. Overnight camping.
Day 11 : AT PADUM Rest day. Padum is the capital of Zanskar and is
linked by a motorable road with Kargil - a two-day journey over the Pensi
La. Overnight camping.
Day 12 : PADUM to KARSHA - 3 to
4 hours Head towards Pibiting, then on a dusty plain towards the
Doda river. Cross a new bridge over the river and then climb towards Karsha.
There is a beautiful Gelug-pa monastery here that dates from the 15th
century. Overnight camping.
Day 13 : KARSHA to PISHU - 5 hours This is
an easy stretch on the often hot and dusty bank of the Zanskar river. Before
Pishu make a small detour to see the longest hanging bridge over the Zanskar
(55 m). It leads to Zangla, from where a trail goes to Padum via Tsazar and
Thongde. Camp is set below the village of Pishu.
Day
14 : PISHU to HANUMIL - 5 hours Continue on the left bank. The
going is easy - sometimes along the river, sometimes across the morainic
plateau. Cross a bridge before Pidmo and continue to the tiny village of
Hanumil, consisting of two houses, both owned by the same family. Camp is
set in a beautiful willow grove.
Day 15 : HANUMIL to
SNERTSE over PARFI LA - 6 hours About an hour beyond Hanumil, cross
a small stream on the left and start a steep climb away from the Zanskar
river, which at this point forms a deep gorge, across a plateau, to the foot
of the Parfi La (12,795 ft/3,900 m). A steep and arduous climb up the pass.
The horses may have difficulty in crossing the pass.
A steep descent
leads to the Oma Chu, a tributary of the Zanskar river, with crystal clear
water and willow trees bordering both the banks - an excellent rest stop.
Cross a bridge and go up a 500-meter sandy slope, from where wonderful views
are available. Continue along the slope to the sheep folds of Snertse, where
camp is set for the night.
Day 16 : SNERTSE to
LINGSHED over HANUMA LA - 9 hours
A
tiring day, which involves a long gradual ascent, through a gorge, past a
sheepfold, towards Hanuma La (15,420 ft/4,700 m). The views from the top are
breathtaking. In the distance you can see Lingshed monastery, a good 4 to
5-hour walk away. A thousand-meter steep descent is followed by a 300-meter
climb along the mountainside. From this small pass, it is an easy descent
towards Lingshed. Camp is set near the monastery.
Day
17 : AT LINGSHED Rest day. Visit Lingshed gompa, belonging to the
Gelug-pa (yellow-hat) sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The gompa complex clings to
the mountainside, rising tier upon tier from the valley floor. Lingshed
village is one of the more prosperous in Ladakh, is well spread out, with
houses surrounded by rich barley fields.
Day 18 :
LINGSHED to foot of SINGI LA - 6 hours An easy hour's climb leads
to Murgum La (13,450 ft/4,100 m). Continue climbing, pass an escarpment then
go along the slope. There are wonderful views of the valley of Nierag on the
opposite bank of the Zanskar. A gentle descent towards the village of Gongma
(12,600 ft/3,840 m) and Siumpta is followed by a steep climb as far as the
Kiupa La (12,630 ft/3,850 m). Then climb gradually along the mountainside up
to the foot of the Singi La, where camp is set for the night.
Day 19 : BASE CAMP to PHOTOKSAR over SINGI LA - 7
hours A rather steep climb to the Singi La (16,405 ft/5,000 m)
taking about two hours, is followed by a short descent into a broad valley.
The going is easy, then a gentle climb towards the Bumiktse La (13,780
ft/4,200 m) from where beautiful views are available. Descend towards
Photoksar, a splendid village at the base of the huge mountain walls. There
is an abandoned gompa some 20 minutes away above the village. Camp is set on
the banks of the river, half an hour's walk beyond.
Day 20 : PHOTOKSAR to HANUPATTA over SIRSIR LA - 7 hours From the
village, a gentle climb leads to a large chorten, followed by a long ascent
of Sirsir La (15,750 ft/4,800 m). An easy descent is then made to the river.
Cross onto the left bank and descend into a stony valley. Camp is set a
short distance before the village of Hanupatta.
Day 21
: HANUPATTA to WANLA - 6 hours From Hanupatta, continue across the
slope until you enter the gorge. At the junction of the rivers, chortens and
prayer flags are seen. Go down up to a bridge across the Yapola and on to
Phenjilla. A little beyond the village, cross again onto the left bank and
continue on a flat stretch to Wanla. There is a beautiful gompa here worth
visiting.
Day 22 : Trek WANLA to LAMAYURU - 3 hours.
Drive LAMAYURU to LEH - 5 to 6 hours Go up the Shillkong valley
along the right bank, cross it and then arrive at Shilla. Pass the village
and go on to a big chorten, then turn sharply to the right into a narrow and
dry gorge as far as the Prinkti La (12,225 ft/3,726 m). An easy descent
leads to an escarpment. Crossing the river, go towards the monastery of
Lamayuru - amongst the oldest and largest gompas in Ladakh and an important
centre of Buddhist learning . It also houses a large collection of
antiquities and is particularly renowned for its fine collection of
thangkhas (Buddhist scroll paintings). A short climb towards the monastery
leads to the road, where transport is waiting for the 5-hour drive to Leh.
